It all depends on the water being filtered, just like every other filter on the market.
If you filter mud, the pores will logically and mechanically clog up faster.
400 L: For the majority of our users who filter at home and on the move (office, school, sports, airport, service station, friends' homes, etc.).
- The water in our taps, where most of the contaminants harmful to our bodies are concentrated (chlorine, pesticides and metabolites, PFAS, heavy metals, drug residues, fluoride and sometimes E.Coli bacteria when filtration plants go haywire following violent storms or malfunctions).
- The kind that springs from griffins in the wild.
DISCLAIMER: water that's clear to the naked eye doesn't mean it's not contaminated, because contaminants that are harmful to our health are INVISIBLE to the naked eye. So pores, also invisible to the naked eye, may become clogged more quickly.
200 L to 400 L: For hikers, trekkers and travelers who go hiking and trekking.
- Water from rivers, lakes and streams.
It all depends on the water you'll be filtering.
If it's charged (and this can be invisible to the naked eye), cloudy and/or muddy, the pores will clog up faster.
It's mechanical, and you'll feel it when you apply harder pressure.
The filter's strength lies in its ability to filter out viruses, bacteria and protozoa, also invisible to the naked eye, which can make us ill.
10 L to 200 L: For hikers, trekkers and travelers who go hiking and trekking.
- Stagnant water (puddles, mud, etc.).
If you have a choice: Filter the clearest, most running water possible.
If you don't have a choice: filter puddles and muddy water. At least you won't get sick, but the filter's lifespan will diminish irreparably.
MORAL: there are billions of types of "filterable" water, and it all depends on the composition of the water you'll be filtering. Be responsible, because only you can decently know the water you're filtering.